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Daytripping

France: Exploring the Ain back waters (Corveissiat, Thoirette and Barrage de Vouglans)

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I really enjoy just driving somewhere and exploring what I find without doing too much research before I go. Maybe it all started when my daughter was small and refused to take her naps at home but would happily sleep for an hour or two if placed in her car seat. At least that was how we came across Thoirette more than 20 years ago. For some reason, we remembered the name of this tiny community, maybe because it is similar to Thoiry. I remember it was a grey and rainy day, and apart from having lunch we were not really tempted to leave the car and go for a walk. Not that we would have known where to walk anyway. This was before we had a GPS at hand in our car, and long before we had access to tourist information and maps on our smartphones. What we did find was a restaurant serving up something we’d never seen before, new as we were to France and continental European cuisine. On the menu was something called “Fritures”, which turned out to be deep-fried tiny fish. The restaurant was packed with locals all enjoying this “Fritures” dish, and we asked in our (at the time) very broken French to have the same as everybody else. It was delicious, our little daughter also really enjoyed stuffing small fish into her mouth, and afterward, we talked about going back for years. Indeed, a lot of years passed, and only in the last couple of years did we find the time to go back and start to really explore the area. And, only last year did we find the time to test the restaurant again. In the meantime, the place had been sold, changed its name, and transformed into a cheap fast-food establishment which (luckily) went bankrupt, before being taken over by somebody treasuring local ingredients and proper cuisine. It has now re-adopted its original name and is focusing on local territory food and cuisine. “Fritures” is still on the menu and if you can I will strongly recommend that you to try this special dish.

You can check the menu and opening times for Le Pont in Thoirette here or visit them on Facebook. For weekends I strongly recommend that you reserve a table in advance. We were lucky to arrive early, and we only got a table in the bar area (which is still cool, because you get to see part of the “inner workings” of the place); those arriving just minutes after us were not that lucky.

The area around Thoirette offers plenty to see and do. Walking to the Grottes at Corveissiat is a nice little walk. This cave is most of the time closed to the public to protect the bats living there. Since caves are ideal places for bats to go to sleep during the day, it is also the perfect place for them to stay out of reach of their enemies. To save on energy, they also need a slightly colder, but frost-free environment with high humidity. Personally, I am terrified of bats and wouldn’t have entered the cave even if I was allowed, but I spoke to some locals who said the cave is open on Wednesday afternoons, however, I have not found any information that confirms this.

There is a prepared trail starting from the car park which will take you to the cave and further down to the river where you pass some old mills, an old washhouse, drinking water networks, and lots of trees with moss on their trunks due to the high humidity. It will take you around 15-20 minutes to walk all the way down, and 20-25 minutes to walk back up again. Even if you won’t be allowed to visit the bats this trail pretty much makes up for it and children will love all the discoveries along the path.

Another relatively short but pleasant walk can be found if you drive just a few hundred meters to Saint-Maurice-d’Échazeaux.

Outside this little hamlet of houses, you will find a newly restored chapel with an incredible panoramic view.

We parked our car at the entrance of this hamlet and enjoyed looking at the beautiful houses and gardens. You’ll easily find the Route de la Chapelle which will take you all the way to the chapel. If you don’t have time for a walk, I still recommend you take this detour (parking can be found next to the chapel). The chapel is built on top of a 250-meter-high cliff, and you will have an amazing view overlooking the river L`Ain, La Valouse, and the Lake of Conflans. For an even better view, it is advisable to follow the footpath on the right side when facing the cliff. This path will lead you to an even better viewpoint where you can admire the Conflans castle and the Bugey mountains. If you don’t want to take the same route back, there is a footpath through the local woods that will take you back to the village.

If you still have time and like to explore more, I think you should drive up to the Barrage de Vouglans. With the recent addition of a sand-blown fresco (!) on its front wall, it is truly a sight to behold.  When we visited, there was no water passing so I can only imagine how impressive it will be to visit on a day when they actually produce electricity. On-site you’ll find lots of information on the building of the dam (both in French and English). You can also read about the artist who did the mural sand-blasted painting. There is also a viewpoint on the other side of the river that you can access by car, or if you are sporty, walk up from the village below.

These are just my suggestions; there is much more to see and do, but I am sure these will keep you busy for a day.

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Walks around Pays de Gex

France: King Kong cave and the skull in Thoiry

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I did not know that I could actually visit a cave right here in our little corner of France.

The cave itself cannot be compared with the impressive caves elsewhere where you have to pay an entry fee to visit, but for a short outing, it is impressive enough for me.

A friend took me for a walk around Thoiry some time ago and showed me what they called King Kong cave and the skull on the wall.

I wish I had known about this treasure when my kids were at the right age for fantasy, imagination, and storytelling. I actually think kids all ages will enjoy a visit to Le Grotte de Chazuet, which is just a short walk from Thoiry centre.

All it takes is a gentle little climb, and just below the road that takes you up to Tiocan this cave appears as if carved into the cliff wall. On your way up to the cave, right next to the pathway, you’ll find the skull carved on the wall.

The cave is big enough to fit several standing adults and is a truly extraordinary place. Even though the cave itself is small, you get the wet and damp cave feeling when inside.

In one of their newsletters from 1963, the Geneva Caving Association mention that archaeologists have found fragments of pottery, bones, and other remains of earlier habitation right here in this cave. The findings show that the cave and the area was used by human beings already during the Bronze age. The newsletter also mentions a megalith a little further up, that was used for religious ceremonies. Today the area around the cave is all quiet and peaceful, but back in the Bronze age the cave and the surroundings were probably bustling with people and voices.

Since I know absolutely nothing about minerals and rocks, I cannot really give a good description of what can be found in the cave. But I am sure somebody with a trained eye can find many interesting rock formations and minerals here.

I did find some cave art; however, I am unsure about how far back these “art” pieces date.

Right. Now on to how to find this cave.

If you come by car, the best option will be to park in the centre of Thoiry where parking can be easily found. If you come by bus, the TPG will take you to Thoiry Gare on their route 68 bus. Then walk in direction of Saint-Jean de Gonville along Rue de Fenieres (D89) until you see the big concrete cross. Walk up and you will find the pathway where the road makes a sharp bend to the right. The pathway will take you gently up past the skull wall to the cave.

After you have visited the cave, you can walk back the same way or walk on the road that leads up to Tiocan. I initially thought I’d take the first possible pathway in the direction of Tiocan back, but then I came across a closed gate with a sign saying there might be cows and bulls out grassing and that continuing would be on my own responsibility. I decided to play it safe and instead carried on upwards, taking the next possible pathway down. While on this path I kept to the left and ended up walking back to Thoiry center along Rue Fenieres.

For those of you who do not know Thoiry very well, it might be worthwhile combining this walk with a visit to the local market which takes place along the main street every Sunday morning. This is my preferred market in all of the Pays de Gex since it is big enough to have everything you desire foodwise, yet small enough to not be overcrowded with people.

Happy walking, and feel free to share!

Walks around Pays de Gex

France: Art en Campagne – A cross border art walking trail

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If you are lucky enough to be in Geneva or neighbouring France between the 26th of June and 5th September, you have to experience the Art en Campagne.

The 4,8-kilometre circular trail takes you across the fields between Ornex in France and Collex-Bossy in Switzerland. For a walk that already offers a beautiful view of Mont Blanc on one side and the more relaxed and greener Jura Mountain on the other side, the art installations just take the walking experience to a new level.

The trail is available and accessible the whole year round but is especially beautiful when you have a multitude of artworks displayed. The majority of the artists live locally but come from all over the world, and have connections to the many arts institutions in the region. In addition, several schools also get to present and display their art creation.

For the 2021 edition, the trail has no less than 47 installations along the short trail. You can pick up a map from one of the many mailboxes that have been put up.

You can also vote for the installation you liked the most. The voting can be done online or by using the sheet you will find in one of the many mailboxes.

The philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau famously said, “I can only meditate when I am walking. When I stop, I cease to think; my mind works only with my legs”. I can assure you that on this art trail you will stop. But you will not cease to think. You will look, read, and admire the fantastic installations. The walk will take you around 1 to 1,5 hours to complete, depending on your walking pace and how many stops you make to admire and take photos of the art installations.

The trails are fairly flat and can be enjoyed by old and young. There was a little stretch in the woods that was a little muddy when I did the walk. But I do not think it would be too complicated to pass even if you have a baby in a pram with you.

The walk can be done in both directions, and you can start from anywhere along the trail. There are several parking opportunities on both sides if you come by car. If you come by bus the TPG will take you to Ornex-Prenepla or Ornex-Fruitiere on the French side. From the Suisse side, the 52 bus stops in Collex-Centre and Bossy. All bus stops are just a few minutes away from the trail.

To have a pre-peak at the map you can click here.

Enjoy the art and the walk, and feel free to share!

Walks around Pays de Gex

France: Circular walk from Mont Mourex to Mont Mussy

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When I was a newcomer to the Pays de Gex, this walk was the first I tried.

I see that whenever people ask for suggestions, this walk is always the first to be mentioned. Once you have been to Mont Mourex, you will understand why. Apart from high altitude I think it covers everything: forest, open pastures, and a superb view of the lake. You will also find an exercise circuit trail and special paths for mountain biking.

Doing the full circuit walk will take an adult not walking too fast just over an hour.

This walk can be done the whole year around. Over the years I have done this walk in the summer, spring, autumn, and winter. The track tends to get muddy so I will avoid putting on my newest white shoes unless you do the walk in the middle of the summer when the weather has been good for a while and the ground is dry.

When my children were young, I sometimes brought them along with friends to play in the forest on a hot summer day as a change to going to the pool. Being sheltered in the forest, they would play for hours in a hut made by branches and make animals from pine-cones.

You can start this walk from the Divonne side (Mussy) or from the Mourex side. Both sides offer plenty of parking possibilities. I always start this walk from the Mourex side. This is mainly because Mourex is closest to where I live, but also because Mourex village is so beautiful. Driving up from Grilly, turn right when you see the big iron cross. Then follow the sign to Mont Mourex. Go slowly with your car the last hundred meters; the last stretch is very bumpy. If you start from the Divonne side, just drive up the Chemin de la Ferme Mussy. For exact details see the map at the bottom of this post.

From the Mourex side you start with a very gentle little climb. The total climb for the full circuit is just over 100 meters so fairly flat.

In the spring and summer, you might meet the cows out grazing like I did just the other day.

You will quickly reach the summit of Mont Mourex, where you will have a fantastic view on the lake, Geneva, and the Alpes. There is an orientation table put up that will help you locate Mont Vuache, Saleve, and Mont Blanc from all the other hills and mountains in sight.

Close to the orientation table you can see a menhir stone. Facing Mont Blanc, it would have been a place for worshipping the sun. The menhir you can see is believed to have been part of a circular cromlech arranged in a large 47-meter diameter circle. If that is the case, it might have been destroyed at the beginning of the 20th century when a signal for the geographical service of the army was constructed (P.Delacretaz,Pierres mysterieuses,page 113).

Communal wood harvesting dates back from the Middle Ages where the Lords would grant village residents the right to cut down trees to use for firewood. On your walk through the wood, you will see that forest workers have cut down and stacked up a lot of wood. To keep the forest healthy, early thinning creates tougher trees that can endure climate change. If the forest is too overgrown the threes can get “stressed”, and stressed threes are more susceptible to droughts and insect attacks. Today, this work is done by professional workers from the National Forest office.

With the wide tracks which are well marked with signposts you should have no trouble find your way to the other end of Mont Mussy whichever parking you chose to use as your starting point.

Enjoy your walk, and feel free to share!

Walks around Pays de Gex

France: Les Pierres des Cupules in St. Jean de Gonville

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Les Pierres a Cupules will in English translate as Cupstones. A cupstone is a stone or rock surface bearing a cup sculpture. Cupstones are associated with places of worship and is believed to have been used as altar stones in prehistoric European religion. They are usually found close to glacial erratics, viewpoints and dangerous alpine trails.

This walk in the woods of St. Jean de Gonville is one I think many of you may have heard about. However, when people ask for hiking directions, I rarely see it mentioned.

I did this walk many years ago with my family and thought it would be easy to find the way. Coming by car and finding a parking space was really easy. Lots of parking is available around the church of St Jean de Gonville. For those not equipped with their own car, the buss from Divonne to Bellegarde stops in St Jean de Gonville. To check the timetable click here. If you are coming from Geneva, the F bus and the 68 bus from TPG will take you across the border into Pays de Gex.

The church was open, so I walked in to have a look (this is the reason for all the doodles on the map). The church was constructed in 1090 on an ancient cemetery by the Clunisien priory of Saint Victor de Geneve. These small parish churches are of cause not as impressive as the cathedrals you will find in big cities, but remain pillars of Christian devotion in their local communities today, same as a thousand years ago. Their simpler architectural lines can be both peaceful and relaxing. If the church is open, I’ll advice you to have a look inside.

OK. Let’s move on to the walk. I would have thought there was a signpost indicating where to find these famous Cupstones. But no, nothing of the sort. At least I could not see any signs in the village indicating the starting point for the walking trail. I personally think that the commune should put a few Euros aside in their next budget to finance some signpost to indicate where this walk starts.

Right. When you have the church right behind you, walk a few meters up Rue de l’Eglise. Turn right on Rue Charriere and then left on Rue Gachet. After you pass a fountain, continue for another 10 meters or so and you will see a path on the right that eventually takes you into the woods.

The path is quite wide, and takes you on a gentle climb up (ignore the side paths and move on uphill). Soon you will have a good view of the area around, including Satigny and Geneva.

After a few minutes, you will come to the only signpost signalizing that you are on the right pathway to Pierre du Neyret.

The Pierre du Neyret rock, transported by the glacier from the Alps, is very impressive. In comparison to the Pierres du Parrey it could not have had the same importance because Pierre du Neyret has no engravings. When looking at I can’t help thinking it looks like a giant stranded whale. If you bring children along, ask them what they think this rock resemble. I’d be curious to know.

Walking on and up, you’ll eventually reach a barrier. From here, the path will take you slowly down to meet another path. At this crossroads, or crosspaths, walk to the left. Finally we’re going up again, this time on a path with a nicely built stone fence on either side. (Farmers today should really take the time to build this kind of fence instead of putting up the ubiquitous and dangerous barbed wire).

When you see the Maison Driset on your right side and this sign in front of you, the fastest route to Les Pierres du Parrey is to walk to the right.

On the map below you can see that I continued walking up; this is because once again it was not very clear to me where exactly in the woods I would find these rocks.

After just a few minutes you will come to a clearing in the forest. This clearing is impressive today and I think it must have been even bigger before. Now, the forest is growing freely since there is very little use of the land for agricultural purposes.

Standing in the middle of this field, you’ll have the Jura Mountains behind you, and a stunning view of the Mont Blanc, Geneva and the lake in front of you. This place must be a perfect place for an evening picnic in the summer, when the Covid curfews are history and we’re again allowed to move around after 6pm here in France.

The first of the rocks is made of granite and has a flat surface, which with its more than 5 meters diameter is quite impressive. It rests on a smaller rock, which almost creates a little hut underneath.

The lower rock is made of chlorite shale and has been covered in engravings of crosses and channels.

After you have admired the rocks, you can chose to do a little loop by continuing upwards on the path you walked on coming up to the clearing. On this loop you will be passing the rocks again before you head back down.

To walk back to St Jean de Gonville, find the path that took you up to the clearing, and when you see Maison Driset do not walk to the right but continue straight on down towards the little Hameau de Mornex.

There’s a surprise waiting for you: On your way down you will all of a sudden see the remains of an old British car, deep in the middle of the woods. I really wonder how it ended up exactly here. I have read there are people traveling across Europe documenting old car wrecks found in the most bizarre places; however, I haven’t found any information about this car in particular. If you know the story of how it ended up here in the woods of St Jean de Gonville, please leave a message in the comments. I am sure there are many of us who are curious to know the history.

Passing the old houses in the upper part of Hameau de Mornex, the charm of ancient times is very much present. Walk down to the big road and look for the church tower. The church tower will lead you through the streets of St Jean de Gonville and back to your starting point.

Enjoy walking, and feel free to share!