Tag Archives: france

Winter Activity

France: Giron, winter hiking on snowshoes and cross-country skiing

Leave a comment

Because La Vattay is the nearest place for me to go cross-country skiing, it’s where I often end up on a nice and sunny day.

But on those nice and sunny weekends when the sheer amount of traffic up towards Col de La Faucille is just crazy, why not try going to a real local place that offers great trails for both the cross-country skiers and on foot.

I discovered the small village of Giron just a few years ago, and it has since become my preferred resort on those days where I just know I’ll spend more time looking for a parking space at La Vattay than actually skiing.

This year, with all the alpine ski resorts closed and shops being sold out for snowshoes, it feels like the whole of Geneva and Pays de Gex take the same route up past Gex and into the Jura mountains at exactly the same time.

This is why Giron, located in the Ain department, is a good alternative. From the greater Geneva region, it takes you about one hour to drive. To get there, all you have to do is drive past Bellegarde and take the local road (not the A40) towards Nantua. Roughly mid-way between Bellegarde and Nantua, at Saint-Germain-de-Joux, you take right and follow the signpost towards Giron. Another few minutes, and you’re there.

Giron is located 1,000 meters above sea level (it even says “Giron 1000” on the signs) and it’s the highest village in the Ain department. Even so, it is relatively low in comparison to many resorts you’ll find on the Jura plateau. In recent years, with relatively mild winters, the snow have melted earlier there than on some of the more north-facing trails elsewhere, especially those at La Vattay. If you’re in doubt about the current snow conditions you can call the Relais Nordique (0033 676 24 52 12) to check with them whether the trails are open, or you can consult the snow report (unfortunately only in French).

As with most of these resorts in our various backyards, for a daytrip you need to have access to a car as public transport is not really an option. If you go for the weekend, Le Relais Nordique has a pickup service that will collect you in Bellegarde.

Interestingly, Giron is the point of arrival for participants in the 76 km long cross country ski race competition La Transjurassienne. The Transjurassienne is the world’s second longest cross-country ski competition, normally taking place in February every year.

Apart from the weekend when the Transjurassienne takes place, Giron is very much a quiet little local station. You won’t find the same number of trails as they have at La Vattay, but the upside is that it is not as busy. Even on a Sunday, you will find parking relatively easy. In the village centre there’s a rental shop and bar/restaurant, as well as restroom facilities, all in one building. At the counter of the rental shop, friendly staff will help you find the right skis or snowshoes. Whenever the nasty Covid virus decide to pack it in, you should be able to enjoy a nice lunch and hot and cold drinks at the Relais Nordique. Even last Sunday, the smell of hot wine was just divine and very inviting.

In the meantime we have to take a packed lunch with us and enjoy it outside. Which can be very nice too.

In order to check out the map of trails, click here for skis and snowshoes.

If you are not in possession of your own equipment, skis, snowshoes and sledges can be rented at Le Relais Nordique. For prices, click here.

Whether you select the green, blue or red trail, you will be passing Cirque de la Fauconniere on the way back to the starting point. This is a spectacular 150-meter-high cliff wall (you’ll pass the summit). On a nice and sunny day, you will be able to enjoy a spectacular view of the Semine valley from this viewpoint. My photo from last Sunday when everything was covered in mist doesn’t really give justice to this spectacular view.

Finally, on your way back, don’t forget to stop in Saint-Germain-de-Joux to check out the local river and its “marmites”. These rock hollows, carved out by the river over millennia, are accessible by a 5-minute walk from the town centre. Just follow the signs! For a longer walk around the “marmite” you should try this walk that I blogged about last year. The Giant Kettles in Saint Germain de Joux (les marmites de geant) and Combe Michel

I hope you enjoy, and feel free to share!

Winter Activity

France: Les Molunes – cross-country skiing or snowshoeing at high altitude in the Jura mountains

Leave a comment

Next up in this series of winter activities in the Jura mountains is Les Molunes. Les Molunes is one of those places that can best be described as being in the middle of nowhere, but a very beautiful nowhere. The commune – which is officially known as Septmoncel Les Molunes – is located in the southern part of the Jura massive in the Hautes Combes. The Haute Combes in turns is a plateau that stretches over sixty kilometres, with an altitude ranging from 900 – 1500 meters above sea level. The landscape offers a tranquil scenery of farms spread over a relatively large area with forest and mountains framing it. Many of the farmhouses were built to accommodate ancient forest workers. Due to the exposed landscape and relatively high altitude the weather can be rough at times, especially the wind. This wind is often coming from the south east, which means that the corresponding wall of the local houses is often fortified with special covering. With just over 100 inhabitants, the small hameau Les Molunes is not winning any competitions for being densely populated, which is probably why it was assimilated into neighbouring commune Septmoncel in 2017. However, it does have the town hall placed at the highest altitude in the whole of the Jura department.

There are three cross-country ski trails prepared, one red, one green and one blue. Both the red and the green starts from La Vie Neuve, and the blue one starts from La Simard, which is near the main road going from Lajoux to La Pesse. There are also two snowshoeing trails prepared; both starts off from La Vie Neuve.

Les Molunes is on the Grand Traverse du Jura. You are therefore not limited to staying on the prepared circuit trails. You can continue on to Lajoux and La Pesse, and whenever the liaison to Les Moussieres is open you can connect to the prepared circuit trails over there.

For dog owners, the rules are the same as for Lajoux. Dogs are not allowed on the cross-country trails, but will be allowed to accompany you if you go on snowshoes.

Curiously, I did not see a ticket office for cross-country tickets; I suggest you stop at the Tourist Office in Lajoux or La Pesse and buy your tickets there. Click to see the prices for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

If you need ski lessons, the ESF Haute Jura has instructors that speak both French and English.

From what I’ve said about the size of the place, it probably comes as no surprise that there are no equipment rental facilities in Les Molunes. The nearest shops can be found in Lajoux, Benoin Jeannin Sport and Mermet Equip’Fond. In Les Moussieres there is also a Gros Sport renting out equipment, and in La Pesse Michel Sport will rent you what you need of equipment.

In the southern part of the Jura massif, I often see dog sledding when out skiing. I have not tried this kind of activity myself yet, but it’s definitely on the list of activities I’d like to try (even if I am normally scared of dogs). There are several professional dog sledders offering outings ranging from one hour to several days in this part of the Jura Mountain. Les Bois Fous is one of these companies and it could very well be their dogs you can see on these photos, taken a few days ago in Les Molunes.

Because of Covid, all bars and restaurants are currently closed and only offer take away for the time being. At Feodor you can order burgers and very local beer and enjoy it outside. There is a table and benches right at the start of the ski trails. When bars and restaurants open up again, I will surely be going back to Les Molunes to try the food that Feodor cooks on his impressive offset smoker, imported from the US. The menu is very tempting with meat smoked on indirect heat for 10 hours, or even smoked Mont D’Or cheese. Just looking at the menu and having a sneak peak at the cosy interiour makes me want to plan lots of trips back to Les Molunes.

How to get there: As for most places in the depth of the Jura mountains, you’ll need access to a car if you are planning a day trip. If you plan to stay for a few days am sure there are possibilities to be transported from Saint Claude to Les Molunes, but it will still be practical to have access to a car when there.

Enjoy your outing to Les Molunes!

Winter Activity

France: Lajoux – Cross country skiing and snowshoeing

2 Comments

The Jura mountains offer so many possibilities to spend time outdoors. I have previously written an article about the Domaine La Vattay and the cross country and snowshoeing possibilities that you find there. Yesterday I decided to drive a little bit further and go to Lajoux.

Cross country and snowshoeing maps of the trails

The village of Lajoux is located on a plateau that offers a spectacular view on the Jura mountain range. It is very exposed to the sun, which is great. The downside is that the snow does not stay very long. I think January and beginning of February is the best time for optimal conditions and fresh snow. You should of cause verify here to see if the trails are open before you go. In Lajoux they also have two webcams where you can quickly check the weather before you go. Webcam 1 and webcam 2. When it is grey and cloudy down in Geneva and Pays de Gex it is very often sunny up in the mountains, so I advise you to check the webcams when in doubt about going or not.

In Lajoux you will find 5 trails for cross country skiing and 7 trails for snowshoeing. There are several choices for both beginners and more experienced skiers and snowshoers. Most of the trails are one-way only, but in some areas, you will be crossing skiers coming in the opposite direction so remember to always keep to the right hand side of the trails.

Trails are normally prepared and open from 08.00 in the morning to 17.00 in the afternoon. If you go before or after you need to be equipped with a headlamp to illuminate the trail.

If you’re a dog owner, you should know that you can not take the dog with you on the cross-country trails. This is because they might damage the trails for the other skiers. If you come with your dog and plan to go snowshoeing, however, the dog will be allowed to accompany you.

Lajoux is also on the Grande Traversée du Jura (GTJ) trail. This is a 180 km trail for cross country skies and 130 km trail for snowshoes, connecting villages in the Jura together, starting from Villier-le-lac in the Doubs department to Giron in the department of Ain. The scenery is breathtakingly beautiful, especially on a sunny day, so do bring your camera (and some sun screen for yourself!). Out on the trails you will be passing one summer chalet after the other and you will have the Jura mountain range in the background.

If you do not have your own equipment, there are two shops that rents out skis and snowshoes. These are both within walking distance from the staring point of the ski trails. To contact them or check the prices for rented equipment click here for Benoin Jeannin Sport and here for Mermet Equip’Fond.

You can buy your ticket at the Tourist Office or at the starting point for the red and blue trail. If you go for the second option bring cash as i am unsure about the possibility to pay with a card here. The prices for a day ticket and seasonal passes can be found by clicking  here: cross-country ski or snowshoeing.

If you think you or your children need ski lessons, the ESF Haut Jura has instructors speaking both French and English.

There is also a little rope lift for children learning to do alpine skiing. This is only open for children enrolled in a ski class trough ESF.

Lajoux is also home to the administration of the High Jura National Parc. In the Maison du Parc you can find a permanent exposition about the life for both animals and humans living in the High Jura mountains. They have activities for kids and offer iPads for English and German translations. At the time of writing, the exposition is closed due to Covid regulations.

At the Fromagerie de Lajoux you can stock up on local cheese, sausages, butter, yoghurt and many other products before heading back home, or to take with you as a picnic to eat out in the nature. The shop is open from 08.30 to 12.00 and 14.00 to 19.00 on most days in the high winter and summer season. Friendly staff and great products make this little shop a must when in Lajoux.

How to get to Lajoux: The quickest way is by car. From Geneva or Pays de Gex it should take you no more than 45 minutes to an hour to get there. The biggest carpark is in the centre right after the tourist information. Coming from the Geneva side it is not possible to go for a daytrip without having access to a car. If you plan to stay for a few days, however, there are bus connections from Saint Claude and Dole, but these are not so frequent. Moving between the villages without a car is not so easy. In normal times you may be allowed to go on the school bus early in the morning and late in the afternoon. Right now, with the Covid situation, I am not sure if this will be possible.

Finally, if you need a toilet, this can be found in the same building as the tourist office with entrance from the back.

Have fun skiing or snowshoeing in Lajoux, and feel free to share!

Short

France: Challex, and parcours de la Corbière

Leave a comment

Overview: Easy and a little sporty

Time: around 1,5 hours               Km: 4                   Hight to climb: 148 meters

I have recently been made aware of the Japanese concept of “forest bathing”, which is said to reduce stress and worry (in my home country of Norway I guess we’d just call it hiking in the woods, but there you go…) On my little exploration walk in Challex I started thinking about how lucky I am to have nature so close to where I live. People living in big cities go to the park to connect with nature. Me, living in the Pays de Gex, have the choice between many different forests and nature reserves. The best of it is that often, these walks in the local nature can be combined with French village charms.

Challex is a bit off the beaten tracks for me. I have never had any friends living there, so I’ve never had any real reasons for going there. Now, after having discovered this short but sporty walk, I’ll definitely go back again.

As for most of the villages in Pays the Gex, the easiest way to get there is by car. Using public transport, Tpg will take you there from Switzerland on the T bus.

I parked just outside the school (Rue des Ecoles) in the village and started my walk from there.

Walk in direction Bellegarde. After a few meters you will see a gravel road. Continue downhill on this road and walk past the vines. When this path ends, walk to the left onto Chemin de Corbet and continue until you reach a fountain. Walk to the right, and you will very soon see a sign telling you that you are on the “Parcours de la Corbiere”. Continue on this path and it will take you down towards the Rhone.

When you see this block that tells the story of the Chateau le la Corbière, walk to the left and into the woods.

The Chateau de la Corbière was built in the twelfth century by the Count of Geneva. By then, Challex had some commercial and political rights and controlled a bridge made of wood that spanned the Rhone river. On the other side of the bridge was the small town of Epeisses, which was controlled by the chateau. Today, Epeisses is in Switzerland and the village is no longer where it used to be. In the 13th century, the level of hostility between the Count of Geneva and the Savoyards eventually resulted in a war. The chateau and the bridge were subsequently completely destroyed by the Savoyards.

Unfortunately, I was not able to find a single trace of the chateau. Maybe you are luckier?

I found this, however, and with a little more work who knows it could turn into a chateau.

Leaving the forest, I walked down under the bridge to have a look at the Rhone. That’s where I came across this house which I think must have been an old mill. The people living here have a magnificent view. Just imagine having your breakfast on the terrace on a summer day, with the Rhone gliding gently by.

What a luxury!

Now, on to the sporty part. I hadn’t really realized that until now, my walk had been mostly downhills. From here on, you’ll get reminded about your heart and lungs! When you see this crossing, walk left and continue up, up and even more up on to the Rue du Chateau.

On Rue de la Treille, walk to the left and through the little village centre of Challex. If the Auberge is open, you can enjoy a drink on the terrace overlooking the woods below, where you’ve just enjoyed your forest bath. Continue for a few more meters and you will be back to your starting point.

Enjoy discovering Challex, and feel free to share!

Medium

Border crossing (Ornex, Collex-Bossy, Bois Chatton and Ferney-Voltaire)

Leave a comment

Overview: Easy but longer walk

Time: around 2-2,5 hours           Km: 9             Hight to climb: around 50m

Autumn has started in the Pays de Gex. I love this time of year. The cooler temperatures, the warm fall colours. So many beautiful things to see and explore this time of the year.

The walk from Ornex to Collex-Bossy is great all year round (but maybe a little too hot on some days in July or August)

This is a roundtrip walk and your starting point can be from Ornex, Collex-Bossy or Ferney. You will find the map a the end of this post.

Did you know there are more than 200 border stones marking the boundary between France and Switzerland? On this walk you’ll be passing a good few of them.

With all of the the zig-zagging between France and Switzerland, remember to bring your identity papers.

Whenever I cross the fields from Ornex towards Collex-Bossy while enjoying the view towards Mont Blanc, I always think I am so lucky to be able to enjoy a view that so many people dream about seeing just once in their lifetime.

Once you arrive in Collex, you’ll be amazed by the charm these small villages in Switzerland have. Everything is tidy, and I think everyone must be a hobby gardener in their spare time. Compare this to France, where things just seem a bit more, well… unruly. Or maybe it’s just the Swiss mentality shining through.

On this walk, you will be walking past a couple of farm shops which at this time of year have their shelves fully stocked, so do bring some money (cash) and support them by buying some local produce.

Leaving the village towards the roundabout in Collex, keep walking straight until Chemin de Orcy and another sign signalizing that you can buy apples and fresh eggs. Here, turn left.

You will be walking past an apple orchard, with cows grazing quietly in a field. What could possibly be more Swiss? Across the street I spotted horses. I wish I’d known about all of this while my kids were small. How fun would it not be for a 5-year old to pick your own apples?

Continuing, follow the yellow walking signposts and cross over the fields – and a small forest – towards La Vielle Batie. Quickly pass the houses and find the path that goes to Bois Chatton.

At the entrance to Bois Chatton you will soon come across the first border stone, brandishing a “G” on one side (for Geneva) and a Fleur de Lys on the French side.

Do not proceed into the woods (OK, no wolves, but still…) but chose instead the path to the left and you will soon walk past one of the CERN sites. Here, you can make a stop to learn a few things about particle physics. (Yes, it’s educational!)

Soon, you’ll be walking past one border stone after another, keep walking until you reach the wide road (Route de Bois-Chatton).

Cross this road and re-enter the woods. Walk until you see the barrier, then turn left and you’ll find yourself walking back to the fields of Collex.

Follow the edge of the fields until you’re almost back to where you started. Now, cross back into France and walk past the vines. There’s no real path here, so make sure you have the small stream called Le Gobé (whatever that means) to your left when facing Mont Black (I walked on the other side of the stream and ended up crossing a private garden, something I won’t recommend).

After about 100 meters and passing another 3 or 4 border stones, you’ll be back on the path again. You can now choose left or right: both options will take you to the “main” path that goes between Ferney-Voltaire and Collex-Bossy. After descending some stairs, walk to the right and you will soon find the new walk and bicycle path that goes between Ferney-Voltaire and Ornex which will take you back to your starting point.

How to get there:

I parked my car along the Rue des Fins.

You can also easily use public transport no matter where you chose to start from. In Ornex, the nearest bus stop will be Preneplan if you take the F bus. In Ferney-Voltaire, there are different bus stops: the nearest is Ferney-Lycee on the 66 route. For Collex-Bossy, take bus 52 and leave at Bossy.

Happy walking, and feel free to share!