Tag Archives: snowshoeing

Winter Activity

France: Giron, winter hiking on snowshoes and cross-country skiing

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Because La Vattay is the nearest place for me to go cross-country skiing, it’s where I often end up on a nice and sunny day.

But on those nice and sunny weekends when the sheer amount of traffic up towards Col de La Faucille is just crazy, why not try going to a real local place that offers great trails for both the cross-country skiers and on foot.

I discovered the small village of Giron just a few years ago, and it has since become my preferred resort on those days where I just know I’ll spend more time looking for a parking space at La Vattay than actually skiing.

This year, with all the alpine ski resorts closed and shops being sold out for snowshoes, it feels like the whole of Geneva and Pays de Gex take the same route up past Gex and into the Jura mountains at exactly the same time.

This is why Giron, located in the Ain department, is a good alternative. From the greater Geneva region, it takes you about one hour to drive. To get there, all you have to do is drive past Bellegarde and take the local road (not the A40) towards Nantua. Roughly mid-way between Bellegarde and Nantua, at Saint-Germain-de-Joux, you take right and follow the signpost towards Giron. Another few minutes, and you’re there.

Giron is located 1,000 meters above sea level (it even says “Giron 1000” on the signs) and it’s the highest village in the Ain department. Even so, it is relatively low in comparison to many resorts you’ll find on the Jura plateau. In recent years, with relatively mild winters, the snow have melted earlier there than on some of the more north-facing trails elsewhere, especially those at La Vattay. If you’re in doubt about the current snow conditions you can call the Relais Nordique (0033 676 24 52 12) to check with them whether the trails are open, or you can consult the snow report (unfortunately only in French).

As with most of these resorts in our various backyards, for a daytrip you need to have access to a car as public transport is not really an option. If you go for the weekend, Le Relais Nordique has a pickup service that will collect you in Bellegarde.

Interestingly, Giron is the point of arrival for participants in the 76 km long cross country ski race competition La Transjurassienne. The Transjurassienne is the world’s second longest cross-country ski competition, normally taking place in February every year.

Apart from the weekend when the Transjurassienne takes place, Giron is very much a quiet little local station. You won’t find the same number of trails as they have at La Vattay, but the upside is that it is not as busy. Even on a Sunday, you will find parking relatively easy. In the village centre there’s a rental shop and bar/restaurant, as well as restroom facilities, all in one building. At the counter of the rental shop, friendly staff will help you find the right skis or snowshoes. Whenever the nasty Covid virus decide to pack it in, you should be able to enjoy a nice lunch and hot and cold drinks at the Relais Nordique. Even last Sunday, the smell of hot wine was just divine and very inviting.

In the meantime we have to take a packed lunch with us and enjoy it outside. Which can be very nice too.

In order to check out the map of trails, click here for skis and snowshoes.

If you are not in possession of your own equipment, skis, snowshoes and sledges can be rented at Le Relais Nordique. For prices, click here.

Whether you select the green, blue or red trail, you will be passing Cirque de la Fauconniere on the way back to the starting point. This is a spectacular 150-meter-high cliff wall (you’ll pass the summit). On a nice and sunny day, you will be able to enjoy a spectacular view of the Semine valley from this viewpoint. My photo from last Sunday when everything was covered in mist doesn’t really give justice to this spectacular view.

Finally, on your way back, don’t forget to stop in Saint-Germain-de-Joux to check out the local river and its “marmites”. These rock hollows, carved out by the river over millennia, are accessible by a 5-minute walk from the town centre. Just follow the signs! For a longer walk around the “marmite” you should try this walk that I blogged about last year. The Giant Kettles in Saint Germain de Joux (les marmites de geant) and Combe Michel

I hope you enjoy, and feel free to share!

Winter Activity

France: Les Molunes – cross-country skiing or snowshoeing at high altitude in the Jura mountains

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Next up in this series of winter activities in the Jura mountains is Les Molunes. Les Molunes is one of those places that can best be described as being in the middle of nowhere, but a very beautiful nowhere. The commune – which is officially known as Septmoncel Les Molunes – is located in the southern part of the Jura massive in the Hautes Combes. The Haute Combes in turns is a plateau that stretches over sixty kilometres, with an altitude ranging from 900 – 1500 meters above sea level. The landscape offers a tranquil scenery of farms spread over a relatively large area with forest and mountains framing it. Many of the farmhouses were built to accommodate ancient forest workers. Due to the exposed landscape and relatively high altitude the weather can be rough at times, especially the wind. This wind is often coming from the south east, which means that the corresponding wall of the local houses is often fortified with special covering. With just over 100 inhabitants, the small hameau Les Molunes is not winning any competitions for being densely populated, which is probably why it was assimilated into neighbouring commune Septmoncel in 2017. However, it does have the town hall placed at the highest altitude in the whole of the Jura department.

There are three cross-country ski trails prepared, one red, one green and one blue. Both the red and the green starts from La Vie Neuve, and the blue one starts from La Simard, which is near the main road going from Lajoux to La Pesse. There are also two snowshoeing trails prepared; both starts off from La Vie Neuve.

Les Molunes is on the Grand Traverse du Jura. You are therefore not limited to staying on the prepared circuit trails. You can continue on to Lajoux and La Pesse, and whenever the liaison to Les Moussieres is open you can connect to the prepared circuit trails over there.

For dog owners, the rules are the same as for Lajoux. Dogs are not allowed on the cross-country trails, but will be allowed to accompany you if you go on snowshoes.

Curiously, I did not see a ticket office for cross-country tickets; I suggest you stop at the Tourist Office in Lajoux or La Pesse and buy your tickets there. Click to see the prices for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

If you need ski lessons, the ESF Haute Jura has instructors that speak both French and English.

From what I’ve said about the size of the place, it probably comes as no surprise that there are no equipment rental facilities in Les Molunes. The nearest shops can be found in Lajoux, Benoin Jeannin Sport and Mermet Equip’Fond. In Les Moussieres there is also a Gros Sport renting out equipment, and in La Pesse Michel Sport will rent you what you need of equipment.

In the southern part of the Jura massif, I often see dog sledding when out skiing. I have not tried this kind of activity myself yet, but it’s definitely on the list of activities I’d like to try (even if I am normally scared of dogs). There are several professional dog sledders offering outings ranging from one hour to several days in this part of the Jura Mountain. Les Bois Fous is one of these companies and it could very well be their dogs you can see on these photos, taken a few days ago in Les Molunes.

Because of Covid, all bars and restaurants are currently closed and only offer take away for the time being. At Feodor you can order burgers and very local beer and enjoy it outside. There is a table and benches right at the start of the ski trails. When bars and restaurants open up again, I will surely be going back to Les Molunes to try the food that Feodor cooks on his impressive offset smoker, imported from the US. The menu is very tempting with meat smoked on indirect heat for 10 hours, or even smoked Mont D’Or cheese. Just looking at the menu and having a sneak peak at the cosy interiour makes me want to plan lots of trips back to Les Molunes.

How to get there: As for most places in the depth of the Jura mountains, you’ll need access to a car if you are planning a day trip. If you plan to stay for a few days am sure there are possibilities to be transported from Saint Claude to Les Molunes, but it will still be practical to have access to a car when there.

Enjoy your outing to Les Molunes!

Winter Activity

France: Lajoux – Cross country skiing and snowshoeing

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The Jura mountains offer so many possibilities to spend time outdoors. I have previously written an article about the Domaine La Vattay and the cross country and snowshoeing possibilities that you find there. Yesterday I decided to drive a little bit further and go to Lajoux.

Cross country and snowshoeing maps of the trails

The village of Lajoux is located on a plateau that offers a spectacular view on the Jura mountain range. It is very exposed to the sun, which is great. The downside is that the snow does not stay very long. I think January and beginning of February is the best time for optimal conditions and fresh snow. You should of cause verify here to see if the trails are open before you go. In Lajoux they also have two webcams where you can quickly check the weather before you go. Webcam 1 and webcam 2. When it is grey and cloudy down in Geneva and Pays de Gex it is very often sunny up in the mountains, so I advise you to check the webcams when in doubt about going or not.

In Lajoux you will find 5 trails for cross country skiing and 7 trails for snowshoeing. There are several choices for both beginners and more experienced skiers and snowshoers. Most of the trails are one-way only, but in some areas, you will be crossing skiers coming in the opposite direction so remember to always keep to the right hand side of the trails.

Trails are normally prepared and open from 08.00 in the morning to 17.00 in the afternoon. If you go before or after you need to be equipped with a headlamp to illuminate the trail.

If you’re a dog owner, you should know that you can not take the dog with you on the cross-country trails. This is because they might damage the trails for the other skiers. If you come with your dog and plan to go snowshoeing, however, the dog will be allowed to accompany you.

Lajoux is also on the Grande Traversée du Jura (GTJ) trail. This is a 180 km trail for cross country skies and 130 km trail for snowshoes, connecting villages in the Jura together, starting from Villier-le-lac in the Doubs department to Giron in the department of Ain. The scenery is breathtakingly beautiful, especially on a sunny day, so do bring your camera (and some sun screen for yourself!). Out on the trails you will be passing one summer chalet after the other and you will have the Jura mountain range in the background.

If you do not have your own equipment, there are two shops that rents out skis and snowshoes. These are both within walking distance from the staring point of the ski trails. To contact them or check the prices for rented equipment click here for Benoin Jeannin Sport and here for Mermet Equip’Fond.

You can buy your ticket at the Tourist Office or at the starting point for the red and blue trail. If you go for the second option bring cash as i am unsure about the possibility to pay with a card here. The prices for a day ticket and seasonal passes can be found by clicking  here: cross-country ski or snowshoeing.

If you think you or your children need ski lessons, the ESF Haut Jura has instructors speaking both French and English.

There is also a little rope lift for children learning to do alpine skiing. This is only open for children enrolled in a ski class trough ESF.

Lajoux is also home to the administration of the High Jura National Parc. In the Maison du Parc you can find a permanent exposition about the life for both animals and humans living in the High Jura mountains. They have activities for kids and offer iPads for English and German translations. At the time of writing, the exposition is closed due to Covid regulations.

At the Fromagerie de Lajoux you can stock up on local cheese, sausages, butter, yoghurt and many other products before heading back home, or to take with you as a picnic to eat out in the nature. The shop is open from 08.30 to 12.00 and 14.00 to 19.00 on most days in the high winter and summer season. Friendly staff and great products make this little shop a must when in Lajoux.

How to get to Lajoux: The quickest way is by car. From Geneva or Pays de Gex it should take you no more than 45 minutes to an hour to get there. The biggest carpark is in the centre right after the tourist information. Coming from the Geneva side it is not possible to go for a daytrip without having access to a car. If you plan to stay for a few days, however, there are bus connections from Saint Claude and Dole, but these are not so frequent. Moving between the villages without a car is not so easy. In normal times you may be allowed to go on the school bus early in the morning and late in the afternoon. Right now, with the Covid situation, I am not sure if this will be possible.

Finally, if you need a toilet, this can be found in the same building as the tourist office with entrance from the back.

Have fun skiing or snowshoeing in Lajoux, and feel free to share!

Winter Activity

France: Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing winter magic at La Vattay!

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La Vattay and Mont-Jura is maybe not the biggest or most visited domain for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in France, but for those of us who live in the Pays de Gex or Geneva, it is the closest. It is also the safest bet for finding cross-country ski trails with snow since it is north-facing and most of the trails are not too exposed to the sun.

You have the possibility to choose from more than 10 different cross-country ski trails ranging from beginner to experienced, and in recent years several trails for snowshoeing have been opened. This, together with the small sledding area, restaurant, toilets, ski schools, ski club and ski and snowshoe rental make La Vattay a favorite for a weekend outing during the winter season.

The restaurant will be open and serve up hearty mountain food. There is a covered area in the basement where you can eat your packed lunch. But why not do it like the Norwegians? Prepare and bring sandwiches, hot chocolate, oranges, and chocolate (preferably the Norwegian classic Kvikk Lunch; if you are unable to find it a bar of Kit Kat will do). Find yourself a nice place in the sun with a good view of the mountains to enjoy your food and a rest. Bringing kids? Pack plastic buckets, shovels, and butt sleds, and make snow as much fun as the beach.

On sunny Sundays, the 900 parking places spread over 4 different parking areas quickly fill up. If you are not an early riser it might be a good idea to take your time with the morning coffee and wait for the early birds to finish and head back home. Opening hours are from 09.00 in the morning to 17.00 in the afternoon.

The easiest way to get to la Vattay is by personal car. During the French school holidays, there is a ski bus that only operates on Saturdays, and only if the ski lifts at La Faucille are open. The ski bus will take you from Divonne les Bains and Gex past La Faucille to La Vattay. To check the timetable, click here.

The more than 140 km of trails will take you to the Plateau de la Vattay, into the forest of Vaud (Switzerland), and down into the valley of Valserine. On the trail called La Petit Grand you will be rewarded with a superb view of Mont Blanc after some gentle uphill climb.

Mont Blanc seen from La Petite Grande

The trails are usually freshly prepared every morning. For a Norwegian like me, it was strange to have to pay a ticket to go cross-country skiing at first, but the quality and the selection of choice when it comes to trails make you understand why. Compared with alpine skiing the total cost for a family of four will be much less than a one-day ski pass at one of the big stations in the Alpes. Click here to see the list of prices for adults and children.

Something else which differs from my native Norway, but I actually find great, is that all the trails are one-way only. When you’re heading down a slope, the risk of crashing into somebody coming in the opposite direction (or being rammed by a less experienced skier coming down a slope at high speed) is non-existent. This makes cross-country skiing at La Vattay very safe. But don’t forget to watch out for each other, always monitor your speed and the speed of the others, especially in places with steeper descents. Always assess the situation and make room for somebody potentially falling over. Leave enough time for others to get up before you attempt your turn on the descent to avoid accidents. Adults weigh more than children and will therefore catch more speed. If somebody should tumble and fall over in front of you, and you can’t steer clear, it’s better to just do a controlled fall yourself – at least you’ll avoid hitting the other person. The reason for saying all this is that my daughter almost got her eye rammed by the tip of a beginner’s ski as a child – she fell during a descent, failed to get up in time, and a novice lady at full speed coming down the same path was clearly not in control of her own speed, failing to exit the piste, just yelling for my 5-year old daughter to clear the tracks. It was a close call, but the situation could have been completely avoided if the beginner had done a controlled fall.

For security measures, dogs are not allowed to accompany you on any of the trails (neither cross-country nor snowshoeing).

Chalet forestier de Puhod

If you say you are not an experienced Nordic skier but want to learn or simply improve your technique, there are three ski schools that offer group and private lessons for both children and adults. To contact them and book your lesson click here: Ecole de ski Nordique de la Vattay and ESI Ecole de ski Nordique and ESF La Vattay.

There is even a ski club where children between 8-16 years of age can hone their skills and techniques every Saturday.

If you do not have your own skis or have children who are growing too fast to invest in their own equipment you can rent skis from La Vattay Sports. La Vattay Sports also rents out snowshoes and sleds (pulka) if you have really small children with you.

Here is a link to the complete map of all the cross-country and snowshoeing trails. On-site you can pick up a nice postcard that has all the trails marked.

To plan ahead you can consult which trails are open here and check the weather on their webcam.

Very often when it is grey and miserable down by the lake, it is nice and sunny up in the mountains, so when in doubt check the webcam.

How to get there: For the moment it is only possible to reach La Vattay by car. Due to the closure of the alpine site of La Faucille due to Covid, the Ski bus going from Divonne les Bains and Gex is not operative for the moment.

Parts of Domaine de la Vattay are situated in a nature reserve. It is therefore important to stay on the marked trails between 15 December and 30 June in order to protect the animal wildlife in the Haut Jura.

At last, a little trick that could come in handy, especially in rented or new shoes. I always try to bring with me a small selection of band-aids. On more than one occasion has this made the ski outing much more pleasant and less painful for myself, my children, and other skiers I have met.

Enjoy the winter!